How to add a glow to photographs in Photoshop

In this weeks tutorial, we are adding a glowing effect to photographs in Photoshop. I received a wonderful comment from Melissa, one of my readers regarding that it would be interesting to see a tutorial for Photoshop. So I thought why not share one of my favorite tricks on how to create glow in Photoshop. 

This Photoshop trick works perfectly when you have a bright light source or sources in the photograph. Without further ado let's go ahead and open the image in Photoshop and start the process. 

Duplicate Layer

Use shortcut CTRL/CMD + J to duplicate the background layer. 

 

Convert to Smart Object

When we are working with this type of effect, it's useful to convert the layer to Smart Objects since we can edit the effects after we have made them.

Convert the duplicated layer into Smart Object by right-clicking on top of the layer and select Convert to Smart Object.

 

Blur

Now give the layer a blur. Go to Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur


Add blur to the image. Around 40–100 pixels seems to work most of the time. Don't worry about the amount at this moment since you can edit it later. 

 

Highlights and Contrast

Add Curves adjustment layer above the blurred layer. 


Create a Clipping Mask by right clicking on top of the curves layer and select Create Clipping Mask. This will now make sure that the Curves adjustments only affect the layer below. 


Pull up the highlights and pull down the shadows slightly to create S-curve with curves. 


Opacity

Go back to the blurred layer and pull down the opacity to around 15-30% depending on your image. I recommend to go with a low opacity and don't overdo the effect.

EDIT: If you don't want to affect the shadow and sharpness of the image use blending modes: Soft Light or Hard Light on the blurred layer.
(Thanks for the tip Roland!)

 

Before and After

And that's it! Just a few steps can add impact to your photos. Thanks to Melissa for suggesting a Photoshop tutorial. I hope you enjoy it!

 

 

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Masters of Landscape Photography

I'm honored to announce that I was selected as the Master of Nighttime for the new Masters of Landscape Photography book by Ross Hoddinott. It includes photographers such as Art Wolfe, Daniel Kordan, Marc Adamus and many more. The 176 page-book includes interviews with ten selected photographers including yours truly. There are ten pages for each photographer with many photos with all the EXIF information and words from the photographers. The book is beautifully well made and the look is high quality, and I can highly recommend it. 

"The work of these 'masters of landscape' changes one's sense of the world: leaves it somehow brighter around the edges, darker in its currents, or more lively in its energies."

Mikko-Lagerstedt-Nighttime-3.jpg
Mikko-Lagerstedt-Nighttime-5.jpg
Mikko-Lagerstedt-Nighttime.jpg

How to create atmospheric photographs part II

Last week I promised a tutorial to show you how to create an atmospheric photograph in post-processing. The editing will be done mostly in Lightroom, but there are a couple of steps that I decided to do in Photoshop. The processing decisions are made from the notes I captured in the scenery. My goal is to show you how I felt. In this tutorial I'm not using the same image I shared last week, because I wanted to create a new view from my notes.

For the photograph, I wrote down a couple of words: A mirror, a world reflected, a second look reveals it, a dream. Cold and mysterious. 

When I was capturing the scenery, I imagined that the reflection would be flipped so that it would look like a kind of dreamy World. 

Editing

Let's start the editing by flipping the scenery in Lightroom go to Photo > Rotate (either one works, do this step twice)

 

BASIC SETTINGS

Let's make it slightly darker and desaturate it so we can add the blue tonality from the Split Toning panel. Also pull detail from the shadows and blacks. 

Temp 4976
Tint 0
Exposure –0,12
Highlights –19
Shadows +26
Whites –5
Clarity –7
Dehaze –2
Saturation –33

 

Tone Curve

As I want to make the overall look a bit darker, let's use the curves to darken and pull some of the blacks to make it hazier. 

 

Split Toning

Now we just need to add blue tonality to make it look colder and more like I saw the scenery.

Highlights Hue 55, Saturation 10
Balance
–100
Shadows Hue 223, Saturation 36

 

Effects 

For this image, I want to add darkness around the edges, so let's add some vignetting. 

Highlight-Priority
Amount
–14
Midpoint 0
Feather 100
Highlights 17

 

Graduated filter

Next step is to add some light to the bottom part of the frame, and the easiest way to do it is with the Graduated Filter. Pull one filter from the bottom portion of the frame towards the top. 

Contrast 33
Whites 26
Clarity 7
Dehaze –13

 

Crop

Usually, I leave the cropping for the final thing to do, but it was hard to visualize the outcome without doing the crop, so cut out the right and bottom part of the frame. 

 

Radial Filter

I want to emphasize the darkness around the frame, so let's add a Radial Filter to darken the image except for the lower part.  

Exposure –0,44
Highlights –50
Shadows 26
Whites –37
Clarity –26

07-radial-filter.jpg

 

RADIAL FILTER II

As I want to boost the lower part of the frame, add another Radial Filter and this time with the following settings. 

Temp –8
Exposure 0,88
Clarity –7
Dehaze –11


Editing in Photoshop

I want to remove some of those branches in the water, and I believe it's easier to eliminate distractions in Photoshop so right-click on top of the image and select: Edit In > Edit In Photoshop CC 2018

 

Removing Distractions 

For this type of editing I prefer to use Photoshop and the spot-healing brush tool. It works magically well most of the time. I recommend that you first create a new blank layer above the image and use the Spot Healing brush tool so it applies to all of the layers.

 

Warp

This is not a necessary step but as the I wanted to straighten the middle tree and make the view more balanced so I used the free transform box and warp to fix it. 

13-warp.jpg

 

Final adjustments in Lightroom

Finally, save the image and head back to Lightroom to make the final adjustments. I tend to use the temperature slider to make the final color adjustments and basic settings to edit how the final image looks like. 

Temp –5
Exposure
–0,10
Contrast +10
Whites +30
Clarity
–5
Dehaze –5
Saturation –10

14-Lr-Final.jpg

Here is the before and after with the same crop. 

And that's it. Quite an easy tutorial on what you can accomplish by having notes and how to use them to edit your photographs. Let me know if you find this two-part tutorial helpful! Next week I will be releasing the new Day to Night fine art photography course, so stay tuned!

Would you like to see post-processing or capturing tutorial next week? Or perhaps something completely different? Let me know!

 

 

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How to create atmospheric photographs part I

The goal of this tutorial is to make you more aware of the process behind your photographs. I'm going to tell you the process I use to create work that inspires me. I talk about how to capture and edit atmospheric photographs. The thing about photography I find so fascinating is that you can always learn new ways to develop your vision. It is more about what happens behind the camera. Because photographers rarely speak about their thought process I wanted to share mine. Next week I will release the second part of this tutorial which shows you an example of the following techniques. 

I believe that the next steps will help you in any photography genre, but when you want to capture landscape photographs with atmosphere, I find these steps to be essential. It's about the different viewpoints we have. 

I know many of us have a problem keeping our work consistent when we are on the road traveling or just spending a whole lot of time photographing. After a shoot or a trip we head back to home after a long day, we might forget to import the photos, or we are just too tired to check the images. As the next day comes, we still haven't reviewed the pictures and didn't even feel the need to do so, and by the time you import the photographs, you might have some thoughts about the captures, but you have lost the ideas for those photos. Maybe not all of the ideas you had, but some were forgotten. Then you find yourself staring at the screen and looking at the pictures like, what was I thinking? Why did I capture the scenery like this? When we are in these situations wouldn't it be amazing to have a place we could go and learn about the photographs? I think so!

Take notes

There is quite a simple method store your ideas for your photographs, take notes! Blah, I said to myself when I first thought about it. I don't want to take notes. But then I remembered how many times I had forgotten ideas behind my images, so I thought that why not try it. And I did, and I think it helped me to be more aware of my work.

Here is how you can do it: After you have done a shoot and it's still fresh in your memory, write down the feelings, ideas or just a few words about the photographs you were capturing. Use a small notepad that you keep in your camera bag. I find it much more rewarding to write down the ideas with a pen and paper than with a smartphone. Sometimes I might even do a small sketch on the same page to visualize it further. I also take a photo with my phone of the page where I wrote down the experience and put it to my Evernote so I can access it on my computer while I'm working on the images. Try it out! It might take you a couple of exercises before it sticks, but if it does, I'm sure you will get most out of your shoot and from the photos.

For the example photograph, I wrote down a couple of words: The other side - a mirror, a world reflected, a second look reveals it.

What is your intention?

When you have your notes, use them as the starting point for your editing. Beginning with a plan keeps your focus on the photos much longer than when you only fool around with settings in Lightroom and don't have a clear vision. 

Ask yourself these questions when you don't have ideas on how to go forward: What kind of emotions you want to draw with your photograph? What is the story behind the image and how did you feel when you were photographing the scenery? Asking questions about your photos can help to guide your post-processing. In this picture, I wanted to convey a feeling of mystery and a look into a different World.

As you now have an idea for your photo, it's time to start to edit the photograph. 

Editing

BASIC SETTINGS

First, I recommend focussing on the global adjustments. Do you feel that the picture looks the way you experienced the moment? If not, maybe you need to make changes to the light and contrast. It may be underexposed, and you need to tweak the exposure. It all depends on your vision of the scenery.

COLORS

Select a color palette that recreates the vision you had when you captured the photos. You can start the color editing with color temperature and tint. Play with the colors and choose if you want more or less intensity.  Or maybe you want the image to be black and white so convert it. 

Color is a huge topic on its own, so let's not dive into it in this tutorial. If you are interested in an article about colors, please let me know in the comments. 

SELECTIVE ADJUSTMENTS

Now you need to pinpoint what is the "hero" or the main subject in the photograph. What was your vision for the picture? Where do you want the viewer's eye to go? What was the reason you captured this view? The eye tends to look at the brightest areas in the photo, so maybe you need to darken other parts of the photograph to tell the story.

EFFECTS

Use the effects to create final adjustments for your photo. Vignetting can help to draw keep the eye in the frame. Noise is also a way to emphasize mood; a grainy look can create a sense of drama. 

The Other Side - Mikko Lagerstedt - 2018, Finland

And that's it. A quick tutorial on what happens beneath the capturing and editing process. As I said, next week I will follow up on a tutorial with these processing steps. Let me know if this was something you enjoyed reading. 

 

 

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